Glutinous rice balls for the 15th of the first lunar month: rolled in a basket in the north, wrapped as tangyuan in the south, with a Southern Song poem by Zhou Bida on cooking them.
A white porcelain plate holds round white glutinous rice balls in a small amount of pale-yellow liquid, with black sesame seeds visible and ginger among the balls, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the plate.
The full moon of the first month: a night of lanterns that closes the New Year season
Yuanxiao are glutinous rice balls eaten at the Lantern Festival on the 15th day of the first lunar month. Northern yuanxiao are usually shaken in a basket to build up layers around a solid sweet filling, while southern tangyuan are wrapped and served in broth or syrup. Volume 43 of the collected works of the Southern Song statesman Zhou Bida contains a poem whose title speaks of cooking floating dumplings on Lantern Festival night. The consulted text gives no year for it.
What
Yuanxiao are glutinous rice balls eaten at the Lantern Festival on the 15th day of the first lunar month. Northern yuanxiao are usually shaken in a basket to build up layers around a solid sweet filling, while southern tangyuan are wrapped and served in broth or syrup.2,3
When
Volume 43 of the collected works of the Southern Song statesman Zhou Bida contains a poem whose title speaks of cooking floating dumplings on Lantern Festival night and says earlier poets seem not to have written on this. The consulted text gives no year for the poem.1
Where
The balls are eaten at the Lantern Festival across China. Ningbo has black sesame tangyuan made by the diaojiang method of water-grinding the rice.3
How
Southern black sesame tangyuan are made by toasting and crushing black sesame, mixing it with sugar and lard into a filling, chilling it until firm, wrapping it in glutinous rice dough and boiling the balls until they float.5,6
Why
The round shape symbolizes reunion, and the opening lines of Zhou Bida's poem also speak of reunion.1,4
Impact and influence
Tangyuan are also eaten at the winter solstice and at weddings, and related foods exist in Vietnam, Malaysia and elsewhere.2,3
Legend has it that under Emperor Wu of Han there was a palace maid named Yuanxiao who was kept from her family. A minister played a trick that made the emperor fear the God of Fire would burn Chang'an, and her rice balls were offered to calm the god. The Lantern Festival is said to come from this.
Told in: A tale of the Han court, told in the English Wikipedia article on tangyuan as a story behind the Lantern Festival; no dated original text was found.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the black sesame tangyuan I make at home. It is the southern tangyuan, wrapped by hand, and not the northern yuanxiao rolled in a basket; the two published recipes I looked at, by two different authors, are both southern black sesame tangyuan too. The filling mix of black sesame, sugar and lard, chilling it for about 15 minutes and the ginger in the syrup follow the recipe with a ginger syrup, while boiling until the balls float and then 1 to 2 minutes more follows the recipe whose filling includes peanuts. The glutinous rice flour follows the recipe with a ginger syrup, and the other amounts are my own choices at home, between the two recipes.
Ingredients
Black sesame seeds, toasted 80 g
Powdered sugar 80 g
Lard (or unsalted butter), softened 60 g
Glutinous rice flour 250 g
Warm water, for the dough about 160 ml, added little by little
Water, for the syrup about 800 ml
Sugar, for the syrup 60 g
Ginger 4 slices
Steps
Toast the black sesame in a dry pan over low heat, stirring constantly, and turn off the heat as soon as it smells fragrant, without letting it burn. Pour it out to cool.
Crush the sesame to a fine meal with a mortar or a rolling pin, mix in the powdered sugar and the softened lard, and press into one mass.
Chill the filling in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes, until firm, divide it into about 20 portions and roll them into balls.
Put the glutinous rice flour in a bowl, add the warm water a little at a time, and knead to a soft dough that does not stick to your hands. Cover it with a damp cloth. Roll the dough into a rope and cut it into about 20 pieces of about 20 g each, the size from the recipe whose filling includes peanuts.
Press a piece of dough into a small cup, set a filling ball inside, pinch the seam shut and roll it round.
Put the water, sugar and ginger in a pot, bring to a boil and simmer for a few minutes to make a ginger syrup. Keep it warm.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the tangyuan, nudging them apart gently with the back of a spoon so they do not stick. Boil until they have all floated to the top, cook 1 to 2 minutes more, then lift them into the ginger syrup and eat them hot.
Tips
I chill the filling until it is firm before wrapping, because a soft filling leaks; that is my own experience.
The filling inside is very hot when the tangyuan come out, so I bite a small opening and let it cool before eating.