Soy Milk and Yuba · FFET10124

Doufunao (Tofu Pudding)

Soy milk set soft with gypsum or brine, with salty gravy in the north and sweet syrup in the south.

Tofu pudding is soy milk set into a soft curd with a coagulant and eaten with a spoon, softer than the douhua that can be picked up with chopsticks, and common at breakfast and snack stalls. In the north, including Beijing and Tianjin, it usually comes with a salty gravy thickened with starch; Guangdong, Hong Kong and the south favor sugar or ginger syrup, while Sichuan leans spicy. No definite place or year of origin was found; among the earlier dated records found is Fu Chongju's Chengdu Tonglan (1909), describing 3 kinds of tofu pudding sold from carrying poles on Chengdu's streets.

What

Tofu pudding is soy milk set into a soft curd with a coagulant (gypsum, brine or glucono-delta-lactone) and eaten with a spoon; the slightly firmer kind that chopsticks can pick up is called douhua. It is eaten as breakfast or a snack with a salty gravy or a sweet syrup.1,7

When

No accepted year of origin was found. Legend credits tofu itself to Liu An of the Han dynasty, a claim scholars doubt. Among the earlier dated records found is Chengdu Tonglan (1909), describing 3 kinds of tofu pudding sold from carrying poles on Chengdu's streets.1,2

Where

It is eaten differently in different places: Beijing and Tianjin usually have a thick salty gravy, Guangdong and Hong Kong a sweet sugar or ginger syrup, Sichuan and Chongqing lean spicy, and Hubei has both.1,3,4,8,9

How

Soybeans are soaked for 4 to 8 hours, ground, strained, boiled and cooled to about 80 degrees Celsius, then set with a small amount of coagulant and left for 5 to 15 minutes. A northern home recipe adds a gravy of ground pork, dried day lily, wood ear and shiitake thickened with starch; the southern style adds ginger syrup, with a home recipe using 400 ml of soy milk and 2 g of gypsum, steamed for 10 minutes.1,6,7

Why

The sweet kind is treated as a liquid food with sugar or honey, eaten hot in winter and cold in summer. The north-south quarrel over sweet or salty became a popular topic on Weibo in 2011.1,3

Impact and influence

A 2017 account records over 160,000 views and comments on Weibo in 2 days during the 2011 sweet-or-salty debate. Hong Kong's Kung Wo Beancurd Factory appears in the Michelin Guide's 2022 Bib Gourmand recommendations, with its douhua mentioned in the entry.3,9

Sources (10)
  1. Source Wikipedia
  2. Source Wikisource (Chinese)
  3. Source The World of Chinese
  4. Source The Paper
  5. Source China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network
  6. Source Omnivore's Cookbook
  7. Source Omnivore's Cookbook
  8. Source Visit Beijing
  9. Source MICHELIN Guide
  10. Source Mirror Media (Hong Kong)