A white porcelain bowl holds soft white tofu pudding under a dark brown savory gravy with minced pork, day lily and wood ear, topped with chopped cilantro and scallion.
Soy milk, and yuba and bean-curd sticks made from it.
Tofu pudding is soy milk set into a soft curd with a coagulant and eaten with a spoon, softer than the douhua that can be picked up with chopsticks, and common at breakfast and snack stalls. In the north, including Beijing and Tianjin, it usually comes with a salty gravy thickened with starch; Guangdong, Hong Kong and the south favor sugar or ginger syrup, while Sichuan leans spicy. No definite place or year of origin was found; among the earlier dated records found is Fu Chongju's Chengdu Tonglan (1909), describing 3 kinds of tofu pudding sold from carrying poles on Chengdu's streets.
What
Tofu pudding is soy milk set into a soft curd with a coagulant (gypsum, brine or glucono-delta-lactone) and eaten with a spoon; the slightly firmer kind that chopsticks can pick up is called douhua. It is eaten as breakfast or a snack with a salty gravy or a sweet syrup.1,7
When
No accepted year of origin was found. Legend credits tofu itself to Liu An of the Han dynasty, a claim scholars doubt. Among the earlier dated records found is Chengdu Tonglan (1909), describing 3 kinds of tofu pudding sold from carrying poles on Chengdu's streets.1,2
Where
It is eaten differently in different places: Beijing and Tianjin usually have a thick salty gravy, Guangdong and Hong Kong a sweet sugar or ginger syrup, Sichuan and Chongqing lean spicy, and Hubei has both.1,3,4,8,9
How
Soybeans are soaked for 4 to 8 hours, ground, strained, boiled and cooled to about 80 degrees Celsius, then set with a small amount of coagulant and left for 5 to 15 minutes. A northern home recipe adds a gravy of ground pork, dried day lily, wood ear and shiitake thickened with starch; the southern style adds ginger syrup, with a home recipe using 400 ml of soy milk and 2 g of gypsum, steamed for 10 minutes.1,6,7
Why
The sweet kind is treated as a liquid food with sugar or honey, eaten hot in winter and cold in summer. The north-south quarrel over sweet or salty became a popular topic on Weibo in 2011.1,3
Impact and influence
A 2017 account records over 160,000 views and comments on Weibo in 2 days during the 2011 sweet-or-salty debate. Hong Kong's Kung Wo Beancurd Factory appears in the Michelin Guide's 2022 Bib Gourmand recommendations, with its douhua mentioned in the entry.3,9
Legend has it that when Liu An, the Han-dynasty Prince of Huainan, was making elixirs, soy milk met gypsum or brine and set into a curd, and that is how tofu came about, and later soft forms such as tofu pudding.
Told in: A legend told around Bagongshan in Huainan, Anhui, and repeated in tofu stories across China. Chinese Wikipedia and a 2020 article from The Paper both say scholars doubt it; it explains the origin of tofu and is not specific to tofu pudding.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is how I make tofu pudding at home, simplified: I use store-bought unsweetened soy milk and food-grade gypsum powder to steam a soft base, then pour on either a sweet ginger syrup or a salty ground-pork gravy as I like. The base and the ginger syrup follow the amounts of one home recipe, with 3.5 g of gypsum for every 400 ml of store-bought soy milk; for the gravy I scaled another recipe down to about 100 g of pork, and how much water and oil to add is my own choice at home.
Ingredients
Unsweetened soy milk 400 ml, store-bought
Food-grade gypsum powder 3.5 g
Brown sugar 100 g
Water (for the syrup) 120 ml
Ginger 1 piece, about 1 cm
Ground pork 100 g
Dried day lily buds 4 g
Dried wood ear 1 g
Dried shiitake 2 g
Light soy sauce 1 tablespoon
Cooking wine 1 tablespoon
Cornstarch 1 teaspoon, mixed with 1 tablespoon of water
Water (for the gravy) about 100 ml, plus the soaking water
Cooking oil a little
Steps
Take a small half bowl of the soy milk, about 60 ml, add the gypsum and stir until it has dissolved completely with no grains left.
Stir in the rest of the soy milk, pour it into a large heatproof bowl and cover it tightly.
Put it in a steamer and steam for 10 minutes once the water boils. Turn off the heat and leave the lid on until the steam has settled; it is ready when the top has set and no longer flows when you tilt the bowl gently.
For the sweet kind: put the brown sugar, 120 ml of water and the ginger in a small pot, bring to the boil and simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes, then pour it over the tofu pudding hot or cooled.
For the salty kind: soak the day lily, wood ear and shiitake in warm water for about 30 minutes, squeeze them dry and chop them, and keep the soaking water. Heat a little oil in a pan, fry the ground pork until it has changed color all the way through, and stir in the cooking wine, the soy sauce and the chopped soaked ingredients.
Add about 100 ml of water and some of the soaking water, bring to the boil and cook for a few minutes, then thicken with the starch mixture and pour it over the tofu pudding.
Tips
The gypsum has to match the soy milk: 2 g for 400 ml of homemade soy milk and 3.5 g for store-bought, as one of the recipes gives it.
Tofu pudding is very soft, so I scoop it with a spoon along the edge of the bowl and not with chopsticks. If people at home differ in taste, split it into two bowls, one sweet and one salty.
Picks come from public lists and guides and were checked on the dates shown; places can change, so confirm before you go.
Zengshengkui Snack Shop
Beijing, Dongcheng District
Order: Tofu pudding (thick gravy with shiitake, wood ear and day lily)
This shop is listed in a Beijing article on breakfast spots from June 2025, which describes its tofu pudding as having a thick gravy with shiitake, wood ear and day lily. If you want to taste the northern salty kind, this is where I would start.
A 2026 feature from Hong Kong describes this shop as still making soy foods in Sham Shui Po and serving douhua with brown sugar, and the Michelin Guide's 2022 entry lists it among its Bib Gourmand recommendations. If you want to taste the sweet kind, you can go here.