A deep oval white porcelain plate holds a whole pan-fried river fish in glossy sauce, with red tomato wedges, green pepper strips, scallion and ginger, with chopsticks resting beside the plate at lower right, angled up right.
The regional cooking of Guangxi, known for rice noodles, glutinous rice and oil tea.
Guilin beer fish is found mostly on West Street and nearby lanes in Yangshuo county. River fish is fried, then simmered with beer, tomato and chilies. Its characterization as a modern dish that emerged with Yangshuo's tourism, rather than an old one, rests on an interviewee's recollection in a 2020 paper. A March 7, 2024 report records that the founder of Xie Dajie Beer Fish began a stall on Diecui Road in 1993, when customers were mostly local.
What
Beer fish is a river-fish dish. It uses live carp from the Li River, cut into pieces with the scales left on, fried in local camellia oil, then simmered with Guilin beer, chilies, tomato and celery until about 20% of the sauce remains.4
When
The available evidence comes from an interview in a 2020 paper and a March 7, 2024 report, without primary records establishing an origin date or creator. This account places beer fish in the modern tourist era: it did not exist before Yangshuo's tourism developed, and local restaurants previously made yellow-braised fish. The founder of Xie Dajie Beer Fish began a stall on Diecui Road in 1993, when customers were mostly local. West Street tourism grew around 1999.1,2
Where
Guilin beer fish is a signature dish of Yangshuo, found mainly around West Street and neighboring Diecui Road in Yangshuo county.1,2,4
How
Live carp of 1 to 1.5 kg is cut into pieces without scaling, fried golden in local camellia oil, then simmered with Guilin beer, chilies, tomato and celery. The beer mainly keeps the flesh tender.2,4
Why
For restaurants, this was a way to offer visitors a local dish made from nearby ingredients: Li River fish and local beer.2
Impact and influence
As of March 7, 2024, Xie Dajie Beer Fish had 9 shops and had sold over 220,000 kg in 2023. In May 2019, West Street had 13 chain shops. In June 2023, nearly every restaurant on West Street served the dish.1,2,3
Legend has it that someone drinking at a restaurant accidentally spilled beer into a pot of fish. The fish tasted better, and local restaurant owners began selling fish cooked in beer.
Told in: An oral tale from Yangshuo's West Street, retold by an interviewee in the 2020 Human Geography paper. The paper gives no date and no name.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the simpler way I make it at home. I use a white-fleshed fish that is easy to buy, not live Li River carp, and no camellia oil, so it comes close to the Yangshuo way but is not the same. The two published recipes I looked at were both adapted for other fish. The amounts of fish, beer, tomato and pepper roughly follow one of the recipes, and the frying and simmering times are my own choices at home.
Ingredients
Whole white-fleshed fish (striped bass, branzino or porgy), scaled and gutted 1, about 540 g, cut crosswise into pieces 3 to 4 cm wide
Salt half a teaspoon, plus more to taste
Cooking oil 45 ml (3 tablespoons)
Ginger 4 slices
Garlic 3 cloves, crushed
Dried chilies 4, snipped in half
Doubanjiang (chili bean paste) 1 tablespoon
Beer, a light one 355 ml
Light soy sauce 1 tablespoon (15 ml)
Green bell pepper 170 g, cut into pieces
Tomatoes 285 g (about 2), cut into pieces
Celery 1 stalk, cut into short lengths
White pepper a pinch
Scallions 2, cut into short lengths
Steps
Pat the fish pieces dry with a paper towel and rub them with half a teaspoon of salt.
Heat the wok, add the oil, and fry the fish over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden. Take it out. It is not cooked through yet, because it will be simmered later.
Leave the oil in the wok and fry the ginger, garlic, dried chilies and doubanjiang for about half a minute until fragrant.
Pour in the beer and soy sauce and bring to a boil. Return the fish and add the green pepper, cover the wok partly with the lid, and simmer on low heat for about 10 minutes. Poke the thick part with a chopstick: the fish is done when the flesh flakes and is no longer see-through.
Add the tomatoes and celery and simmer 2 minutes more. If there is a lot of sauce, turn the heat up and reduce it until it is thick enough to cling to the fish.
Taste, add salt if needed, sprinkle on the white pepper and scallions, and serve at once.
Tips
I always dry the fish before it goes in, so the oil spits less and the skin sticks less; this is my own habit.
Doubanjiang is already salty, so I taste near the end before deciding whether to add salt.