A small round white porcelain bowl holds browned skin-on pork belly slices over dark salted mustard greens, with glossy brown sauce pooling beneath and green scallion on top, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the bowl.
The regional cooking of Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macau, prized for live, fresh ingredients and light flavours.
Mei cai kou rou is skin-on pork belly boiled, browned in oil and sliced, then steamed soft with salty preserved mustard greens and turned out onto a plate so the greens sit underneath. The Hakka version comes from the Meizhou area, where Hakka people live at the meeting point of Guangdong, Fujian and Jiangxi. Its precise town of origin and date remain unclear: no dated text was found; an April 18, 2023 article links it to Su Dongpo nearly 1000 years ago, but explicitly calls this a legend and gives no source.
What
Mei cai kou rou is a steamed dish of skin-on pork belly. The meat is boiled, browned in oil and sliced, then laid over salty preserved mustard greens and steamed until soft. It is then turned out onto a plate so the greens end up underneath. Kou rou means meat steamed and then inverted onto a plate, and mei cai is mustard greens that have been salted and air-dried.1,2,4,5
When
No text establishing a date for the dish was found. An April 18, 2023 article places the Su Dongpo legend nearly 1000 years ago, but gives no source, so it cannot establish a date.1,3
Where
The Hakka version comes from the Meizhou area, in the border region of Guangdong, Fujian and Jiangxi where Hakka people live, but its precise place of origin is unclear. The Sichuan dish shaobai is comparable. Mei cai is made in Huizhou, Meizhou and Jieyang in Guangdong and Shaoxing and Ningbo in Zhejiang, among other places.1,2
How
The 2 recipes follow much the same plan. One uses dried mei cai, soaked for 5 to 6 hours, and the other uses salted mei cai, soaked soft and chopped. The belly is boiled before browning (about 35 minutes in one, a 10-minute blanch in the other), then browned and sliced, and steamed with the greens, soy sauce, wine and sugar: 75 minutes in one, 90 minutes at a full boil in the other. After steaming it is turned out onto a plate.4,5
Why
The dish's connection to Hakka mountain life rests on costly transport, simple seasoning, and salty, rich cooking. This explanation appears in only 1 article, with no other source to corroborate it.3
Impact and influence
No intangible heritage listing or output figure was found for the dish.1,2,3,4,5
Legend has it that when Su Dongpo lived in exile in Guangdong, he had a cook add mei cai to his recipe for braised pork, and the dish then spread through Hakka villages across Guangdong.
Told in: A Hakka tale, told in an article on Hakka food in Dangdai Zhongguo of April 18, 2023. The article puts it at nearly a thousand years ago but itself calls it a legend and gives no source.
The Tale of the Fairy Named Mei
Legend has it that in a time of war a fairy named Mei came down and gave people the seeds of a vegetable that grew fast enough to eat soon after planting. People thanked her by calling the vegetable mei cai. It is a tale about where the name came from, and it gives no year.
Told in: A Hakka tale, told in the same article, which presents it as a legend with no source.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the Hakka mei cai kou rou as I make it at home, a simplified home version: I do not reduce the cooking liquid separately, and I use just a few seasonings. The amounts and method mainly follow one recipe by a named author: 400 g of skin-on pork belly with 200 g of salted mei cai, a 10-minute boil for the meat and a 90-minute steam. Another recipe by a named author uses dried mei cai soaked for 5 to 6 hours, boils the meat about 35 minutes and steams for 75 minutes, which differs, so I did not follow it. I check for myself that the meat is cooked through, as described below.
Ingredients
Skin-on pork belly 400 g
Salted mei cai (preserved mustard greens) 200 g, soaked, rinsed and chopped
Sugar 3 tablespoons
Light soy sauce 1 tablespoon
Dark soy sauce 1 teaspoon
Shaoxing wine 1 tablespoon
Scallion 2, chopped; this amount is my own choice
Cooking oil 1 tablespoon, for browning the pork; this amount is my own choice
Steps
Wash the pork belly, boil it in a pot of boiling water for 10 minutes (as in the recipe I follow), then lift it out and pat it dry.
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a pan, lay the pork in skin side down, and brown it over medium heat until the skin takes on color. The skin spatters, so I hold a lid in front of me; this is my own way.
Let the pork cool until it no longer burns your fingers, then cut it into slices about 0.5 cm thick.
Soak the mei cai until soft, rinse it in several changes of water, squeeze it dry and chop it. Taste a small piece before going on, and if it is very salty, soak it a while longer.
Stir the 3 tablespoons of sugar, 1 tablespoon of light soy sauce, 1 teaspoon of dark soy sauce and 1 tablespoon of Shaoxing wine together. Toss half of this seasoning with the pork slices and the other half with the mei cai.
Arrange the pork slices skin side down in a deep bowl, then spread the seasoned mei cai on top and press it down.
Put the bowl in a steamer and steam over a full boil for 90 minutes, as in that recipe (the other one steams for 75). If the water runs low, top it up with boiling water.
Lift out one of the thick slices and cut it open: the pork is cooked through when no pink is left inside and the skin is soft enough for a chopstick to go through. If not, steam it another 15 minutes.
Set a plate upside down over the bowl and flip both together, then lift the bowl away with care. The greens are underneath and the skin is on top. Scatter the scallion over it and serve.
Tips
Mei cai varies in saltiness, so I always taste a small piece before it goes in; this is my own habit.
While it steams I keep a kettle of boiling water ready to top up the steamer so it never boils dry; this is my own way.