A small round white porcelain bowl has pork belly coated in brown ground short-grain and glutinous rice, star anise, fennel seeds, Sichuan peppercorns, bay leaves and cinnamon, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the bowl.
Fen zheng rou is pork belly coated in toasted, coarsely ground rice and spices and steamed until soft. The Qing-dynasty cookbook Suiyuan Shidan by Yuan Mei includes half-fat, half-lean pork mixed with rice toasted yellow and steamed over cabbage, classifying it as a Jiangxi people's dish. A competing Hubei origin claim appears in an entry tagged as lacking sources. The accounts differ, so this entry takes neither side and gives no year.
What
Fen zheng rou is pork belly coated in toasted, coarsely ground rice and spices and then steamed soft. Sichuan versions often marinate the pork with doubanjiang.1,5
When
Yuan Mei's Qing-dynasty cookbook Suiyuan Shidan already gives a method: half-fat, half-lean pork mixed with rice toasted to a yellow color and steamed over cabbage. The consulted entry gives no year for the book, and the listed materials contain no earlier dated record.2
Where
The Jiangxi origin claim rests on Yuan Mei's description of a Jiangxi people's dish, also used in a 2015 English-language magazine article. The dish is found in Hubei, Jiangxi, Hunan and Sichuan. A competing Hubei origin claim appears in an entry tagged as lacking sources; the origins remain disputed here.1,2,3
How
Both recipes are adaptations. One is Sichuan-style: rice and glutinous rice are toasted with spices and ground coarse, the pork is marinated with doubanjiang, soy sauce, rice wine, oyster sauce, egg and sesame oil, coated in the rice and steamed over cubed sweet potato for 50 to 60 minutes. The other uses five-spice powder and taro, marinates the pork overnight and steams it for about 2.5 hours.5,6
Why
Steaming without letting water show preserves the meat's flavor.2
Impact and influence
Steaming food in rice flour is common in Sichuan, Hunan and Hubei, and flour steaming is one of the 9 steaming methods tied to Tianmen cooking.4
Legend has it that the Chongzhen Emperor ate fen zheng rou at an inn run by the Ding family in Henan and came to like the dish.
Told in: A 2015 article in an English-language magazine, which presents it as a folk legend set in Henan.
Wang Kuang and Wang Feng Steam Flour and Greens
Legend has it that the rebel leaders Wang Kuang and Wang Feng, short of food at Jingling (today's Tianmen in Hubei), ground grain into flour, mixed it with wild greens and steamed it, and that the method spread as Tianmen steamed dishes. The tale is about steaming food in flour in general and does not name fen zheng rou.
Told in: A 2019 health report by a Taiwanese media outlet (updated 2022), which gives no date for the tale.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
Fen zheng rou is made differently in different places, and both recipes I draw on are adaptations: one is a Sichuan recipe by a named author, with doubanjiang and a sweet potato base; the other is a signed recipe by a chef in a food broadcaster's recipe section, with five-spice powder and a taro base. This is my home version and it mostly follows the former: the rice amounts and the steaming time come from it, while the amounts of the spices and the marinade seasonings are my own choices at home. A cup is a US cup, about 240 ml.
Ingredients
Pork belly 600 g, sliced about 0.5 cm thick (the thickness is my choice)
Short-grain rice 3/4 cup
Glutinous rice 1/2 cup
Star anise 2 pods
Fennel seeds 1 teaspoon
Sichuan peppercorns 1 teaspoon
Bay leaves 2 leaves
Cinnamon 1 small piece
Doubanjiang 1 tablespoon
Light soy sauce 1 tablespoon
Cooking wine 1 tablespoon
Oyster sauce 1 tablespoon
Egg 1
Sesame oil 1 teaspoon
Sweet potato about 300 g, peeled and cut into small cubes (the amount is my choice)
Steps
Put the rice and glutinous rice in a dry pan with the star anise, fennel, Sichuan pepper, bay leaves and cinnamon and toast on low heat, stirring constantly, until the grains turn faintly yellow and smell fragrant. Then lift them out to cool. I judge it by color and smell.
Once cool, pick out the bay leaves and cinnamon and grind the rest coarsely, not to a fine powder, so a little grain remains. A mortar or a home grinder will do.
Put the pork in a large bowl with the doubanjiang, soy sauce, cooking wine, oyster sauce, egg and sesame oil, mix well and leave it for about 30 minutes. That time is my own choice; the other recipe marinates overnight.
Pour the ground rice over the pork and mix until every slice is coated.
Spread the sweet potato cubes in a deep heatproof dish and arrange the coated pork on top.
Bring water to a boil in the steamer, set the dish in, cover and steam for 50 to 60 minutes, the time given in the former recipe. The pork must be cooked through: lift out one slice and the meat should be tender, with no raw pink left, and the rice coating cooked.
Serve hot, with the sweet potato underneath, and eat it together with the pork.
Tips
I cut the sweet potato into pieces of about the same size so they come out equally soft.
For a taro version, the latter recipe uses taro, marinates the pork overnight and steams it for about 2 and a half hours; at home I usually make the shorter sweet potato version.