A round white porcelain plate holds slices of white radish cake with golden pan-fried faces, dotted with dried shrimp, dried shiitake mushrooms, Chinese sausage and scallion, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the plate.
Luobo gao is a savory cake of grated white radish and rice flour batter, steamed, cooled, sliced and pan-fried until crisp outside; common additions include dried shrimp, dried shiitake and Chinese sausage. It is a Cantonese teahouse dim sum item and a New Year food in Guangdong and Hong Kong, with local versions in southern Fujian, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia, where names include caitou guo and luobo ban. The place and date of origin are not established, and no dated text was found for this entry.
What
Luobo gao is a savory cake made by grating white radish, mixing it with rice flour batter and steaming it; once cool it is sliced and pan-fried until crisp outside. Dried shrimp, dried shiitake and Chinese sausage are common additions. English often calls it turnip cake, a mistranslation: the vegetable is radish.1,2,3,4
When
No date of origin was found. It is a common Cantonese teahouse dim sum item and a Lunar New Year food in Guangdong and Hong Kong; it was also served at the Lunar New Year in one recipe author's childhood home. The dates associated with Singapore concern the stir-fried version alone, not this steamed cake.1,2,3,4
Where
Luobo gao is common in the Cantonese teahouses of Guangdong and Hong Kong, is also found in Chaoshan, and is common in southern Fujian, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia. A place of origin is not established.1,2
How
The grated radish is simmered for about 10 minutes, then mixed with rice flour batter and sauteed dried shrimp, shiitake and sausage, and steamed in a pan for about 40 to 50 minutes. The cake is cooled (30 minutes in one method, chilled overnight in the other), sliced and pan-fried for 1 to 2 minutes on each side.3,4
Why
It is eaten at the New Year because gao, cake, sounds like gao, high, a wish for rising fortune.1,2,3,4
Impact and influence
It is a teahouse dim sum item and a New Year food, and in Singapore and Malaysia the same cake is also stir-fried.1,2
The story goes that farmers in Taiwan who had received the farmland of the Ming loyalist Zhu Shugui secretly honored him with radish cakes on his death anniversary, his birthday and the Lunar New Year, after the Qing replaced the Ming.
Told in: Told in Taiwan, found in the English Wikipedia entry on turnip cake, which draws on a Taiwanese magazine and presents it as one account, not a conclusion.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is my home version of radish cake, with just dried shrimp, shiitake and sausage, leaving out the dried scallops and cured meat of the latter recipe. The amounts of radish and rice flour and the steaming time follow the former recipe, by a named author of a family cooking blog; cooling before slicing and pan-frying for 1 to 2 minutes a side follow the latter recipe, by a named author of another recipe blog, who chills the cake overnight. The cornstarch, water, fillings and seasoning are my own home choices, and the conversions between cups and grams are mine. The way I check that it is done is my own.
Ingredients
White radish about 570 g (20 oz), coarsely grated
Rice flour 1 1/4 cups
Cornstarch 3 tablespoons
Dried shrimp 2 tablespoons, soaked and chopped
Dried shiitake mushrooms 4, soaked and diced
Chinese sausage 2 links, diced
Scallions 2, thinly sliced
Soy sauce 1 teaspoon
Salt 1/2 teaspoon
White pepper a pinch
Water about 1 cup (240 ml) in all, half to simmer the radish and half for the batter
Neutral cooking oil 1 tablespoon for the fillings, plus more for pan-frying
Steps
Put the grated radish in a pot with half a cup of the water and simmer on low for about 10 minutes until soft (the time comes from the former recipe). Take it off the heat with its liquid.
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a pan and sauté the shrimp, mushrooms and sausage until fragrant. Add the soy sauce, take it out and stir in the scallions.
In a large bowl stir together the rice flour, cornstarch, salt and white pepper. Pour in the radish with its liquid and the remaining half cup of water, and stir into a thick batter that can still be poured; add a little more water if it is too stiff. Stir in the cooked fillings.
Oil a square or round steaming pan, pour in the batter and smooth the top.
Bring the water in the steamer to a boil, set in the pan and steam covered for 40 to 50 minutes (about 40 for a round pan, about 50 for a deep loaf pan, from the former recipe). I push a chopstick into the center, and it is done when the chopstick comes out clean of batter.
Take out the pan and cool the cake for at least 30 minutes (from the former recipe). If I have time I chill it overnight, as the latter recipe does, and the cake firms up and slices easily.
Turn out the cake and cut it into slices about 1.5 cm thick. Heat a little oil in a skillet over medium heat and pan-fry the slices for 1 to 2 minutes on each side (the time comes from the latter recipe) until golden and crisp. Eat hot.
Tips
I let the cake cool all the way before slicing and never cut it warm, because a warm cake falls apart.
When pan-frying, I let each side sit still against the pan until it loosens by itself before I turn it, rather than prying it up with a spatula.