A round white porcelain plate holds pork ribs in a thick reddish-brown glaze, with scallion pieces, ginger slices, star anise and cinnamon bark among the ribs, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the plate.
The regional cooking of Jiangsu, divided into the Jinling, Huai-Yang, Su-Xi and Xu-Hai style areas.
Wuxi sauced spare ribs is a dish from Wuxi in Jiangsu, in which pork ribs are braised with soy sauce, wine, sugar and spices until tender and reduced to a thick sauce. It is one of 3 Wuxi specialties, the other 2 being Huishan clay figurines and Qingshui fried gluten. Its reported origins fall in the Guangxu reign (1875 to 1908), while a 2018 account gives it about 140 years; neither account cites a dated primary text, so this entry does not settle the dating.
What
Wuxi sauced spare ribs is pork ribs simmered for a long time in a dark red, salty-sweet sauce until the meat is tender and nearly falls off the bone. It is one of Wuxi's signature dishes.1,2
When
The dish's reported origins fall in the Guangxu reign (1875 to 1908); a 2018 account gives it about 140 years, also placing it in that reign. Neither account cites a dated primary text, so the dating remains unconfirmed; the Ji Gong story is a tale, not a dated record.1,2
Where
Wuxi, Jiangsu, part of Wuxi's local benbang cooking. It is among Wuxi's 3 specialties, the other 2 being Huishan clay figurines and Qingshui fried gluten.1,3
How
The ribs are marinated or salt-cured, then blanched or browned, and braised for about 1 hour with soy sauce, rice wine, sugar and spices, and reduced to a sticky glaze at the end. Some shops also keep an aged braising stock.1,4,5
Why
The early cooks made the dish from trimmed meaty bones and sold it cheaply, and that is how it spread.1
Impact and influence
It is an iconic traditional dish of Wuxi and one of the city's 3 specialties.3
Legend has it that in the Southern Song, the monk Ji Gong, holding a torn palm-leaf fan, cooked meaty bones at Nanchan Temple in Wuxi, and the smell drew a crowd. This is a tale that has been passed down, not a dated record.
Told in: A Wuxi folk tale set at Nanchan Temple, as retold in Chinese Wikipedia, which cites no dated text for it.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the simpler way I make it at home, in the Wuxi benbang style. The amounts of light and dark soy sauce, water, rock sugar, oil, scallions, ginger and star anise follow the former recipe (one blogger's signed recipe, braised about 1 hour and reduced for 5 to 10 minutes). The weight of the ribs follows the latter recipe (another blogger's signed recipe, about 510 g), and the 3-minute blanching also comes from the latter. The amounts of rice wine and cinnamon are my own choices at home, and the conversions to grams and milliliters are mine. I leave out the 12-hour salt cure and the red yeast rice from the latter recipe.
Ingredients
Pork spare ribs about 510 g, chopped into pieces about 4 cm long
Light soy sauce, for the marinade 2 tablespoons (about 30 ml)
Shaoxing rice wine, for the marinade 2 tablespoons (about 30 ml)
Cooking oil 2 tablespoons (about 30 ml)
Scallions 4, cut into sections
Ginger 5 slices
Star anise 2 pods
Cinnamon bark 1 small piece
Light soy sauce, for braising 2 tablespoons (about 30 ml)
Dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon (about 15 ml)
Rock sugar 3 tablespoons
Water or stock 240 ml
Steps
Put the ribs in a pot of cold water, bring it to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes. Lift them out, rinse off the scum with warm water, and drain.
Toss the ribs with 2 tablespoons light soy sauce and 2 tablespoons rice wine, and leave them for 30 minutes.
Heat the oil in a pot, fry the scallions and ginger over medium heat until fragrant, add the ribs, and brown them lightly on the outside.
Add the star anise, cinnamon, the remaining 2 tablespoons light soy sauce, the dark soy sauce and the rock sugar. Pour in the water or stock and bring it to a boil over high heat.
Cover and simmer over low heat for about 1 hour, until the meat is tender. Check a thick piece: it is done only when no pink is left inside and the meat next to the bone pulls away easily.
Remove the lid and reduce the sauce over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, turning the ribs constantly, until it turns thick and coats them. Then serve.
Tips
The latter recipe cures the ribs in salt for 12 hours and adds red yeast rice. I skip both at home, so my ribs come out lighter in color.
The sugary sauce catches easily as it reduces, so I stay by the stove, keep turning the ribs, and turn off the heat as soon as the sauce thickens. This is my own habit.