A small white porcelain plate holds six or seven square blocks of crisp golden-brown fried hairy tofu, one broken open to reveal a soft creamy white center, with a small dish of glossy red chili sauce beside the plate.
The regional cooking of Anhui, best known through the Huizhou food of the south, with a name for fire control and rich colour.
Mao doufu is fresh tofu left to ferment until it grows a white coat of fine mold threads, then pan-fried or deep-fried until the outside is crisp and the inside stays soft, usually eaten with chili sauce. March 2026 coverage documents the tradition in Huizhou, with makers in Chengkan in Huizhou District and Lantian in Xiuning. An early account is attributed to the Ming text Peng Long Ye Hua by Li Rihua, but no specific year is given and the original is unchecked, so this secondhand account does not establish its age.
What
Mao doufu is tofu left to grow a white coat of mold threads and then fried. The preparation documented in August 2023 lets tender tofu ferment naturally until white threads cover it, then fries it for serving with chili sauce; December 2023 coverage also notes that it is often deep-fried.3,4
When
An early written account is attributed to the Ming text Peng Long Ye Hua by Li Rihua. It describes letting tofu grow fur in summer and autumn, wiping the fur off, frying it in hot oil and cooking it with other ingredients. No specific year is given and the original text has not been checked, so this remains a secondhand account of a Ming-era mention.1
Where
Huizhou, in what is now the Huangshan area of southern Anhui. March 2026 coverage documents mao doufu in Chengkan in Huizhou District and Lantian in Xiuning; March 2020 coverage records street vendors around Huangshan frying it on stoves carried on shoulder poles.2,5
How
The tofu is set and left in a warm, humid room so white threads slowly cover it, then pan-fried and served with chili sauce. A winter batch ferments longer and fries up crisper. One home recipe uses a mold starter; another coats the furred tofu in egg yolk, deep-fries it, then stir-fries it with chili, onion and soy sauce.2,6,7
Why
Its taste resembles sea abalone. The available material does not explain why it is made locally, so no reason is inferred.1
Impact and influence
Street vendors and restaurants around Huangshan sell mao doufu, an Anhui specialty. No intangible heritage listing was found for it.3,4,5,7
Legend has it that Zhu Yuanzhang, on the run near Xiuning, was too hungry to go on. Locals grilled some tofu they had hidden away and that had grown fur, and he found it good. Later, once he had won, he is said to have ordered his army cooks to make it for the troops.
Told in: A folk tale from the Xiuning area, told in the March 2026 Sinoweek feature as a story; no dated original record of it was found.
The Rumor of the Kangxi Emperor
A rumor says the Kangxi Emperor also liked mao doufu, and that this helped spread its name far and wide. It is only a rumor, and no text confirms it.
Told in: A rumor from the Huangshan area, reported as such by China Daily in March 2020.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is my simplified home version. Of the two recipes I read, one explains how to ferment and the other how to fry the tofu and toss it with chilies, and I joined the two together. Huizhou itself uses natural fermentation and chili sauce for frying, while I use a starter, so mine differs from the way it is made there. The amounts and timings below are my own choices at home. Take care with the fermenting step: only white fur is normal.
Ingredients
Firm tofu 500 g, cut into cubes of about 2.5 cm
Mold starter for fermenting tofu 1 packet, used as the package directs
Cooled boiled water, to mix the starter 120 ml
Egg yolks 3, beaten
Cooking oil 250 ml for frying the tofu, plus 15 ml for the stir-fry
Red chili 1, diced
Green chili 1, diced
Onion half, diced
Light soy sauce 2 tablespoons (about 30 ml)
Dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon (about 15 ml)
Chopped scallion a little
Steps
Cut the tofu into cubes of about 2.5 cm, steam them for 7 minutes, and let them cool all the way before going on.
Stir the mold starter into 120 ml of cooled boiled water as the package says, dip each cube, set them apart on a clean rack, and put the rack in a box with a tight lid.
Keep the box somewhere warm for 5 to 7 days, and I look in once a day. The tofu is ready only when it is covered in thick white fur. If any pink, green or black patches show up, I throw the whole batch away.
Coat each furred cube lightly in the beaten egg yolk, handling it gently.
Heat 250 ml of oil in a small pot over medium heat, and when fine bubbles rise steadily around a dry chopstick, add the tofu. Fry for about 4 minutes, until the crust is golden and crisp and the inside is hot all through, then lift out and drain. I fry in batches so the pot is not crowded.
In a second pan, heat 15 ml of oil and stir-fry the diced chilies and onion for about 1 minute. Add the fried tofu, pour in the light and dark soy sauce, toss for about 1 minute, scatter the scallion and serve hot.
Tips
I judge fermenting by how thick the fur has grown, not only by counting days; the two recipes I read say 5 to 7 days and 5 to 6 days.
Of the two recipes I read, one ferments the tofu in a closed box with a starter, and the other covers it with a thick cloth in a cool, dry place to grow fur on its own. I follow the former at home because it gives more detail.