A Sichuan and Chongqing fish dish: pickled greens, pickled chilies and peppercorns are fried, broth is added, and thin fish slices are poached and finished with hot oil.
A deep white china bowl has pale egg-white-coated grass carp slices in oily yellow broth, pickled mustard, pickled and dry chiles, Sichuan pepper, ginger, garlic and green onion, with wood chopsticks resting beside the bowl.
The regional cooking of Sichuan and Chongqing, known for its wide range of flavour types.
Suan cai yu is a Sichuan and Chongqing fish dish: thin fish slices are poached in a sour, spicy broth of Sichuan pickled mustard greens, pickled chilies, ginger and Sichuan pepper, then finished with hot oil. It belongs to Sichuan cuisine; its Chongqing origin account rests on a 1994 magazine article. Zhouyu eatery in Jinfu township, Jiangjin, served it from the mid-1980s; this claim comes from one self-published article dated November 5, 2019, without documentary support.
What
Suan cai yu is a Sichuan dish of fish slices poached in a sour, spicy broth made with Sichuan pickled mustard greens, pickled chilies, ginger and Sichuan pepper. Grass carp and catfish are commonly used, and other meats can replace the fish.1,2,4,5
When
The Chongqing origin account rests on a 1994 magazine article. Zhouyu eatery in Jinfu township, Jiangjin, served it from the mid-1980s; it spread nationwide with Sichuan and Chongqing hotpot in the 1990s. This history comes from one self-published article dated November 5, 2019, without documentary support; no dated record was found to establish an inventor or year.1,3
Where
Suan cai yu belongs to Sichuan cuisine, with its origin placed in Chongqing. Several origin accounts center on Jiangjin on the Yangtze.1,2,3
How
Fry the chilies, ginger, garlic and pickled greens until fragrant, add broth, briefly poach thin fish slices, then pour hot oil over them. This differs from shui zhu yu, where hot chili oil is poured over blanched fish. Preparations can use a whole fish, with the bones used for broth, or fillets alone.1,4,5
Why
Sichuan households pickled greens in early winter and ate them into the next summer. The sour greens cover the muddy taste of freshwater fish.1,3
Impact and influence
Suan cai yu became common in restaurants nationwide in the 1990s alongside Sichuan and Chongqing hotpot; this account comes from a single self-published article.3
The tale goes that on the Yangtze at Jiangjin, fishermen sold their large catch and cooked the leftover small fish with pickled greens swapped from farmers on the bank, making a pot of sour soup, which is told as the boat-side forerunner of suan cai yu.
Told in: Jiangjin, Chongqing; told in a self-media article of November 5, 2019 that gives no document.
The Sent-Down Youth and the Muddy Fish
One popular account says that young people sent to the countryside cooked river fish with pickled greens to hide its muddy taste, and brought the method back to the cities when they returned in the late 1970s.
Told in: Sichuan; told in the same self-media article, whose author holds that this is the root of the dish but gives no document.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the Sichuan and Chongqing suan cai yu in a simplified home version. Both recipes come from food blogs, their authors are named, and they make the same dish: recipe A uses a whole fish, with the fillet marinated and the head and bones made into broth; recipe B uses fillets alone, with ready-made pickled greens and chicken broth. The home version follows recipe A for method and amounts (it serves two), and recipe B for the wine and sugar. The recipes poach the slices for different times, about 30 seconds in recipe A and 1 to 2 minutes in recipe B, so I go by how the slices look.
Ingredients
Grass carp (or catfish) 1 whole fish, about 800 g
Salt, for the fish marinade 2 g
Egg white 1
White pepper 1 g
Light soy sauce 15 ml
Starch 10 g
Sichuan pickled mustard greens about 150 g, rinsed and chopped
Pickled chilies 5
Dried chilies 10
Sichuan peppercorns 10
Ginger 4 slices
Garlic 4 cloves
Scallions 5, whites and greens kept apart
Shaoxing wine 15 ml
Sugar 5 g
Cooking oil 45 ml for frying and 30 ml to finish
Water 800 ml
Steps
Ask the fishmonger to take the two fillets off the fish and keep the head and bones, which you chop into pieces. Slice the fillets on the slant about 3 mm thick.
Rinse the slices in light salted water and drain them, then mix in the salt, egg white, pepper, soy sauce and starch and let them sit for 15 minutes while you prepare the rest.
Heat 30 ml of the oil in a pot, fry the pickled greens until dry and fragrant, then add the dried chilies, peppercorns, garlic, ginger and scallion whites and fry until fragrant. Scoop them into a bowl.
Add the remaining 15 ml of oil to the same pot and brown the fish head and bones until lightly golden. Return the fried aromatics, add the pickled chilies, wine, sugar and 800 ml of hot water, bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes.
With a slotted spoon, lift the greens, bones and chilies into a large, deep bowl. Keep the broth at a gentle boil, taste it, and add salt if it needs it.
Slide the fish slices into the broth one by one without stirring hard, and cook until every slice is opaque white and even the thickest has no raw color inside. Then pour fish and broth into the bowl.
Scatter the scallion greens over the bowl and add a few more peppercorns. Heat the remaining 30 ml of oil until a piece of scallion dropped in sizzles at once, and pour it carefully over the bowl.
Tips
Pickled greens vary in saltiness, so I taste the broth before I add any salt, and add it if the broth is not salty enough.
The hot oil spits when it lands, so I use a fairly deep heatproof bowl and pour with my arm held well back.