A round white porcelain plate holds a brown lotus leaf with sticky rice coated in brown sauce, boneless chicken thigh, shiitake, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp and ginger, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the plate.
Lo mai gai, or glutinous rice chicken, is a snack of glutinous rice, chicken, mushroom and other fillings steamed in a lotus leaf. It is a Guangdong dim sum, often with barbecued pork, and in Malaysia and Singapore it is also steamed in a bowl. The reported origin at Guangzhou night markets and a 2024 recipe's account crediting old Guangzhou street vendors lack sources or a reliable year, so its starting date remains uncertain. In the 4 recipes, the steaming after wrapping runs from 15 minutes to about 90 minutes, depending on whether the rice was cooked beforehand.
What
Lo mai gai, or glutinous rice chicken, is a small parcel of glutinous rice in a lotus leaf, holding stir-fried chicken and mushroom, and often Chinese sausage or dried shrimp. It is a Guangdong dim sum, and the filling can also include barbecued pork.1,2,3,4,5
When
No dated text was found; existing dating claims and a 2024 recipe's account of its creation by old Guangzhou street vendors lack sources, so its starting date remains uncertain.1,2,3,4,5
Where
It is a Guangdong dim sum, reportedly originating at Guangzhou night markets; in Malaysia and Singapore it is also steamed in a bowl.1
How
The glutinous rice is soaked, the chicken and other fillings are stir-fried separately, and rice and fillings are layered on a softened lotus leaf, folded into a parcel and steamed. The steaming after wrapping runs from 15 minutes to about 90 minutes, depending on whether the rice was steamed or cooked beforehand.2,3,4,5
Why
The 2024 recipe's account of street vendors creating it as food to grab and go lacks a source; the other texts consulted do not explain the use of lotus leaves, so no explanation is inferred.1,2,3,4,5
Impact and influence
Lo mai gai also has a small version called pearl chicken and bowl-steamed forms in Malaysia and Singapore. The 4 recipes differ in their fillings: some add Chinese sausage, others dried shrimp, dried scallop or pork.1,2,3,4,5
The tale goes that the dish began with street vendors at Guangzhou night markets, who sold glutinous rice with chicken to people on the move, ready to eat in the hand.
Told in: A tale of the Guangzhou night markets: Chinese Wikipedia says it reportedly began there, and a 2024 recipe article credits old Guangzhou street vendors with a food to take away on the way to work. Neither gives a source, and no dated original text was found.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the simpler way I make it at home, four small parcels at a time. The glutinous rice is soaked and steamed until half done, the chicken, mushroom, sausage and dried shrimp are stir-fried separately until seasoned and cooked through, and everything is wrapped in a softened lotus leaf and steamed again. The amount of rice follows a recipe that names no individual author (I use less chicken than it does), the mix of sausage, mushroom and dried shrimp follows a signed recipe, and soaking the rice beforehand follows another signed recipe. The recipes I read give different times for steaming the rice beforehand and for steaming the parcels, so about 25 minutes beforehand and about 20 minutes after wrapping are my own choices at home.
Ingredients
Glutinous rice 200 g
Boneless chicken thigh 150 g, cut into dice of about 1 cm
Dried shiitake mushrooms 3
Chinese sausage 1, diced small
Dried shrimp 1 tablespoon
Ginger 3 slices, chopped
Light soy sauce 1 tablespoon
Oyster sauce 1 tablespoon
Cooking wine 1 tablespoon
Sesame oil 1 teaspoon
Cooking oil 1 tablespoon
Dried lotus leaves 2 large, each cut in half
Kitchen twine 4 pieces, about 40 cm each
Steps
Rinse the glutinous rice, soak it in water for at least 2 hours and drain it.
Spread the drained rice in a steamer lined with a damp cloth and steam over boiling water on high heat for about 25 minutes, until the grains turn translucent and have no hard core when bitten.
Soak the mushrooms and the dried shrimp separately in warm water until soft, squeeze the mushrooms dry and dice them. Scald the lotus leaves until pliable, rinse and dry them, and trim them into four squares of about 25 cm.
Heat the wok, add the oil, and fry the ginger and sausage over medium heat for about 1 minute. Add the chicken and stir until it turns white, then add the mushroom and dried shrimp with the soy sauce, oyster sauce and wine, and stir for about 4 minutes. Cut open one thick piece of chicken: it is done when no pink is left. Turn off the heat and stir in the sesame oil.
Divide the hot rice into 8 portions. On each leaf, press down one portion of rice, put a quarter of the filling on it and cover with another portion of rice. Fold in the four sides to make a square parcel, set it seam side down and tie it with twine.
Steam the parcels over boiling water on high heat for about 20 minutes. Open one to check: the rice should be translucent and soft and the chicken should have no pink inside.
Tips
Wrap the rice while it is hot; once it cools it stiffens and is hard to fold. This is my own experience.
I dry the scalded leaves before wrapping, or water seeps into the rice; this is my own habit.