A white porcelain plate holds flaky pastries with golden egg-wash coating and white sesame seeds, with soft candied winter melon and unsweetened dried coconut filling visible, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the plate.
Cakes and pastries of every kind, baked, steamed or fried.
Lao po bing is a traditional Cantonese flaky pastry, especially associated with Guangzhou, Guangdong: a water-and-oil dough wraps a winter melon filling that usually includes cooked glutinous rice flour and sesame, and the top is slashed, brushed with egg and sprinkled with sesame before baking until golden. It originated in Guangdong, but the name's origin is unclear; the several existing explanations are folk tales without written evidence.
What
Lao po bing is a round, flaky pastry. The crust is a lard-based water-and-oil dough in many thin layers, and the filling is a sweet winter melon paste that usually includes cooked glutinous rice flour and sesame, soft and chewy.1,3,4,5
When
No dated record of this pastry was found; accounts of its origins are folk tales rather than documented events, and the origin of its name is unclear.1,2,3,4,5
Where
Lao po bing is a traditional Cantonese pastry from Guangdong, especially associated with Guangzhou. Other places have their own versions; the Medan version in Indonesia, for example, differs from the Cantonese one.1,2,3,5
How
A water dough is wrapped around an oil dough, rolled out and rolled up to make layers; the winter melon filling is sealed inside, the ball is pressed into a disc, slashed, brushed with egg, topped with sesame and baked. One method bakes at 190 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes, then adds egg wash and sesame and bakes 20 to 25 minutes more; another bakes at 200 degrees Celsius in a convection oven for 20 to 22 minutes.4,5
Why
The name's origin is unclear; existing explanations are folk tales without written evidence.1,2,3,4,5
Impact and influence
The pastry has traveled: the version from Medan in Indonesia differs from the Cantonese one.5
Legend has it that a poor couple needed medicine for the husband's sick father, and the wife sold herself into service to raise the money. The husband later sold a flaky cake, earned enough to buy her back, and named the cake after her.
Told in: A folk tale from the Cantonese-speaking world, retold in an English-language magazine article and in the Chinese and English Wikipedia entries. No old book that records the story was found.
The Wife of Zhu Yuanzhang
Another account says Lady Ma, wife of Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming, made a portable cake of winter melon, wheat and sugar for rebel soldiers, who spread it around the country. The article calls this the less romantic version.
Told in: A folk tale told in a 2017 English-language magazine article. No old book that records the story was found.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is how I make Cantonese lao po bing at home. The amounts for the doughs and filling and the baking follow a recipe blog by a named author, making 15 pieces; a second recipe by another named author uses fresh and candied winter melon and bakes differently, and I note the difference in the tips. Lard is pork fat. I judge the baking by color and take the pastries out when the tops are golden.
Ingredients
Water dough: all-purpose flour 200 g
Sugar 2 tablespoons
Lard 60 g
Water 100 ml
Oil dough: all-purpose flour 160 g
Lard (for the oil dough) 80 g
Filling: cooked glutinous rice flour 150 g
Sugar (for the filling) 50 g
Salt (for the filling) 1/8 teaspoon
Warm water 130 ml
Cooking oil 50 g
Candied winter melon 200 g, finely ground
White sesame seeds, toasted 50 g
Unsweetened desiccated coconut 30 g
Egg wash: egg 1, beaten with 1/8 teaspoon salt
White sesame seeds (for topping) a pinch, as you like
Steps
If you cannot buy cooked glutinous rice flour, dry-fry plain glutinous rice flour over low heat for about 15 minutes and let it cool. Grind the candied winter melon and toast the sesame seeds over low heat.
Mix the cooked glutinous rice flour, sugar, salt and warm water, add the oil and knead until largely absorbed, then add the winter melon, sesame and coconut and mix into a sticky paste. Cover and chill for 2 hours, then divide into 15 pieces of about 45 g each and roll them into balls with lightly oiled hands.
Knead the water-dough flour, sugar, lard and water into a smooth dough. The oil-dough flour and lard are crumbly to begin with; keep kneading until smooth and shiny. Divide each dough into 15 pieces and keep them covered.
Flatten a piece of water dough, set a piece of oil dough on it and wrap it up. Roll it into a rectangle and roll it up; turn it 45 degrees, roll it out again and roll it up a second time. Bring the two ends together, flatten and roll it into a round about 10 cm across.
Place a portion of filling in the middle, wrap and pinch to seal, set it seam side down and press gently into a disc about 7.5 cm across. Arrange on a parchment-lined baking sheet about 1.25 cm apart and make two cuts in the top of each.
Preheat the oven to 190 degrees Celsius and bake for 10 minutes. Take them out while still pale, brush with the egg wash, sprinkle with sesame and bake 20 to 25 minutes more, until golden. Cool completely on a rack before eating.
Tips
Chilling the filling for 2 hours is this recipe's step; once cold it is easier to portion and wrap.
The other recipe says unsalted butter can replace the lard; it fills the pastry with fresh and candied winter melon and bakes at 200 degrees Celsius in a convection oven for 20 to 22 minutes.