A round white porcelain plate holds golden pastries with crumbly crusts made from butter, egg yolk and condensed milk, enclosing amber pineapple jam visible through the pastry, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the plate.
Cakes and pastries of every kind, baked, steamed or fried.
Feng li su is a Taiwanese pastry in which buttery shortcrust wraps cooked pineapple jam, often pressed in a rectangular or round mold. Fillings documented in 2017 include pure pineapple (the local pineapple) and blends with winter melon. Its description as a traditional Taiwanese pastry lacks a cited source, and no dated text was found, so this entry gives no origin year.
What
Feng li su is a small pastry: a buttery, crumbly shortcrust around a sweet-tart cooked pineapple jam, often pressed in a rectangular or round mold.1,3,4
When
No dated text was found, so this entry gives no origin year.1,2,3,4
Where
Taiwan, where bakeries across the island sell it and giving it as a gift is a common custom.1,2,3,4
How
Pineapple is cooked down with sugar and butter to a jam, and a butter dough with milk powder and egg yolk wraps it. The 2 recipes bake it at about 170 degrees Celsius and flip the cakes halfway through baking.3,4
Why
In Taiwanese the word for pineapple sounds like a phrase meaning that prosperity arrives, so the cake is a lucky gift, notably at the Lunar New Year.1,3,4
Impact and influence
It is a common gift pastry in Taiwan. Fillings documented in 2017 vary by maker, from pure pineapple (the local pineapple) to a winter-melon blend, with shop-made versions often using winter melon.1,2,3,4
It is said that the Taiwanese word for pineapple sounds like a phrase meaning that prosperity arrives, so people give the cake as a wish for luck at the New Year and bring a box home as a gift. This is wordplay, not a history.
Told in: A Taiwanese wordplay telling, found in Chinese Wikipedia and in a recipe author's article.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
This is the simpler way I make pineapple cakes at home. The pastry amounts follow recipe A, a signed recipe with amounts and 18 numbered steps. It says the pineapple jam may be bought or homemade, and I use bought jam, which is my simplification. Recipe B is another author's, and it cooks its own jam from fresh pineapple (660 g pineapple, 220 g sugar and 80 g butter, cooked for about 30 minutes); use it if you want to make the jam yourself. Both recipes bake at 170 degrees Celsius. The baking times follow recipe A, and I then judge by color. The way I shape and wrap is my own.
Ingredients
Butter 85 g, softened
Powdered sugar 30 g
Egg yolk 18 g
Condensed milk 15 g
Cake flour 120 g, sifted
Milk powder 15 g
Pineapple jam (bought) 300 g, about 18 g per cake
Steps
Beat the butter and powdered sugar until smooth, then mix in the egg yolk and condensed milk.
Sift in the cake flour and milk powder, mix to a dough, then cover and rest it for 30 minutes, as recipe A does.
Divide the jam into 15 portions of about 18 g and roll them into balls. If the jam is soft, I chill it briefly beforehand, which is my own habit.
Divide the dough into 15 equal pieces, flatten each one, wrap a jam ball in it and pinch the seam closed. Press it flat in a mold, or shape it by hand into a square or round. Chill the cakes for 15 minutes, as recipe A does.
Preheat the oven to 170 degrees Celsius. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, flip the cakes and bake for another 5 to 8 minutes, the times recipe A gives, until they are light golden.
Let the cakes cool and keep them in a closed tin. Recipe A rests them for 24 hours before serving, and I do the same.
Tips
Recipe B's author says that commercial versions often use winter melon in the filling, so when I buy ready-made pineapple jam I read the ingredient list.
When I flip the cakes I use a thin spatula and a light hand so the pastry does not crack; this is my own experience.