A deep white porcelain bowl holds clear amber broth, yellow egg noodles and wontons with pale wrappers enclosing shrimp and minced pork, alongside green choy sum, with wooden chopsticks resting beside the bowl.
The regional cooking of Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macau, prized for live, fresh ingredients and light flavours.
Yun tun mian is a noodle dish of Guangzhou and Hong Kong: egg noodles with shrimp and pork wontons, served in a clear broth or tossed dry with sauce. It arose in Guangzhou's Xiguan in the late Qing and early Republic and was sold in Hong Kong shops by the 1930s, though these dates lack cited sources. In Hong Kong, 7 wonton noodle shops are listed in a dining guide, and some shops press noodles with a bamboo pole.
What
Yun tun mian is springy egg noodles served with shrimp and pork wontons, either in a clear, savory broth or dry-tossed with sauce, often with greens or yellow chives.1,3,4,5
When
It arose in Guangzhou in the late Qing and early Republic and was sold in Hong Kong shops by the 1930s; these dates lack cited sources, leaving the exact origin date uncertain.1
Where
Wonton noodles are found in Guangzhou and Hong Kong, with versions carried by migrants to Malaysia and Singapore.1
How
The shrimp and pork wontons are boiled apart from the noodles. The broth is traditionally made with pork bone, shrimp shells and dried flounder, and some shops press the noodles with a bamboo pole.1,2,3,4,5
Why
Wartime and postwar migration brought Guangzhou cooks and a demand for cheap noodles to Hong Kong, where the bowl came to hold more shrimp.1,2
Impact and influence
In Hong Kong, 7 wonton noodle shops are listed in a dining guide. Old bamboo-noodle shops have been closing in recent years.1,2
In the slang of Guangdong noodle shops a bowl of wonton noodles is called rong. It is said to be short for furong noodles and tied to a line in Bai Juyi's poem Song of Everlasting Sorrow that compares a face to a lotus. A rival guess says it began as a word meaning to hold, for cupping a small warm bowl in the hands. These are tellings, and no text can be checked against them.
Told in: A telling from the Guangdong and Hong Kong noodle trade, as retold in Chinese Wikipedia.
The small bowl for the young gentlemen
It is said that the small portion called xi rong was made for the sons of wealthy families, who wanted to savor a few wontons without filling up.
Told in: A Hong Kong telling, retold in Chinese Wikipedia, with no date.
This is a simplified home version, not the traditional restaurant method.
In Hong Kong wonton noodles are all about the broth and the pressed noodles. This is the simpler way I make two bowls at home: the broth is bought chicken stock with dried flounder powder instead of a five-hour bone stock, and the noodles are ready-made Hong Kong-style egg noodles. The wontons follow recipe A, from a Hong Kong cookbook, a signed recipe with amounts and numbered steps: shrimp and pork filling, wontons boiled for about 2 minutes. The shrimp soak and the filling and broth amounts follow recipe C, another signed recipe. Recipe B is a third signed recipe that uses just chicken broth and no flounder, a shortcut. The number of wrappers, the seasoning, the amount of noodles and the greens are my own choices at home, and the conversion of 3 cups of stock to 720 ml is mine.
Ingredients
Shelled shrimp 150 g
Baking soda (for soaking the shrimp) 1/4 teaspoon, dissolved in a bowl of water
Minced pork 80 g
Light soy sauce 1 teaspoon
Sesame oil 1/2 teaspoon
White pepper a pinch
Dried flounder powder (for the filling) 1/2 teaspoon
Wonton wrappers 20
Chicken stock 720 ml
Dried flounder powder (for the broth) 1 teaspoon
Hong Kong-style fresh egg noodles about 200 g
Choy sum or other greens about 100 g
Salt to taste
Steps
Soak the shrimp in the baking soda water for 20 to 30 minutes, as recipe C does. Rinse them well, drain, pat dry with paper towels and cut into small pieces.
Stir the minced pork, shrimp, soy sauce, sesame oil, white pepper and 1/2 teaspoon of flounder powder in one direction until sticky.
Put a small spoonful of filling on each wrapper, fold it over and pinch the corners together to make 20 wontons.
Bring the chicken stock and 1 teaspoon of flounder powder to a boil, turn the heat low to keep it hot, then taste and add salt if needed.
Boil the wontons in a separate pot of water for about 2 minutes, the time recipe A gives, and a little longer once they float. I lift one out and cut it open: it is cooked through when the pork shows no raw pink and the shrimp are pink and opaque.
Cook the noodles in the same water. Recipe A blanches them twice for 30 seconds each, and recipe C cooks them for about 15 seconds; I follow the package and lift them out when they are springy, then drain them into the bowls. Blanch the greens in the same water for about 1 minute.
Ladle the hot broth into the bowls, add the wontons and greens, and eat at once.
Tips
I boil the wontons and noodles apart so the broth stays clear and the noodles do not turn mushy; this is my own method.
For a dry-tossed bowl, I toss the noodles with a spoonful of soy sauce and a little sesame oil and serve the wontons with a small bowl of broth; this is my own variation.
Allergens: shellfish, wheat, egg, soy, sesame, fish