Street Snacks · FFET10301

Malatang (spicy numbing soup)

A Sichuan-Chongqing snack in which diners pick vegetables, meat, tofu and noodles that are cooked to order in a spicy, numbing broth.

Malatang is a snack in which vegetables, meat, tofu and noodles chosen by the diner are cooked in a spicy broth seasoned with Sichuan pepper, counted by the stick at stalls and weighed by the bowl in shops. Origin accounts conflict: one traces it to Qing-era boat trackers, dockworkers and salt workers around Leshan but lacks a dated source; a 2026 account traces it to Yangtze dockworkers in the 1980s and the hot pot of Chongqing’s Jiangbei wharf; another places its precursor, chuanchuan xiang, in the 1980s and 1990s. In 2025, Wutongqiao District in Leshan was promoting Niuhua town as the birthplace of Chinese malatang and seeking a collective trademark; this is local promotion, not a title that has been granted.

What

Malatang is a snack in which diners choose vegetables, meat, tofu and noodles to be cooked in a spicy broth seasoned with Sichuan pepper.1,2,6,7

When

Origin accounts conflict and lack dated sources: one traces it to Qing-era boat trackers, dockworkers and salt workers around Leshan; a 2026 account traces it to Yangtze dockworkers in the early 1980s and the hot pot of Chongqing’s Jiangbei wharf; another places its precursor, chuanchuan xiang, in the 1980s and 1990s. This entry assigns no origin year and names no inventor.1,2,5

Where

Sichuan and Chongqing. In 2025, Wutongqiao District in Leshan promoted Niuhua town as the birthplace of Chinese malatang, a local promotional claim. The Tianshui, Gansu version uses potato noodles; the Northeast version uses bone broth and a sesame-peanut sauce. A malatang shop opened in Japan in 2007, and Tianshui malatang boomed in 2024.1,3,4

How

Stalls keep skewers in a pot of broth and count the sticks; shops weigh a bowl of chosen items. The broth uses Sichuan pepper, chili and herbs. One recipe fries aromatics, then bean paste, adds chilies and soaked spices, and simmers about 15 minutes. The Northeast version uses bone broth and a sesame-peanut sauce.1,2,6,7

Why

A 2026 account traces it to the cheap hot pot eaten by workers at Chongqing’s Jiangbei wharf, with bamboo sticks as a new way to eat standing up; another describes boat trackers, dockworkers and salt workers cooking in one shared pot on the riverbank. Neither account has a dated source.2,5

Impact and influence

In July 2025, Niuhua had nearly 600 chain stores. Malatang spread in the 1990s with laid-off workers in the Northeast.1,3,4

Sources (7)
  1. Source Wikipedia
  2. Source Wikipedia
  3. Source Sichuan Online
  4. Source Sichuan Online
  5. Source Huxiu
  6. Source China Sichuan Food (recipe blog)
  7. Source The Mala Market (blog)