In a noodle workshop, one cook lifts a long curtain of pulled noodles, another shaves dough into a boiling pot and a woman cuts rolled-out dough, with big blue-and-white bowls of noodle soup before racks of drying noodles.
Noodles
Noodles are foods made from wheat, rice, starch, buckwheat, oat or other meal, mixed into a dough or batter, formed into strands or sheets, and boiled, tossed, stir-fried or dried for keeping. The methods include pulling, cutting and shaving, rolling and cutting, extruding, steaming sheets and cutting them into strips, and hang-drying, giving pulled noodles, knife-shaved noodles, dried hung noodles, rice noodles, liangpi, starch vermicelli and instant noodles. They are eaten in soup, tossed or stir-fried, and each region has its own style shaped by local produce and taste. Millet noodles about four thousand years old were reported from the Lajia site in Qinghai; the Hou Han shu mentions boiled dough (zhubing) under the Eastern Han emperor Zhi; and the Northern Wei Qimin yaoshu gives methods for shuiyin and botuo.
Sources (4)
Noodle making starts by mixing meal and water into a dough or batter, then shaping it into strands or sheets that are boiled, tossed with seasoning or stir-fried, or dried for keeping. The strands are formed by pulling, shaving, rolling and cutting, or extruding; some are made by steaming a batter into a sheet and cutting it, and some are cut and hung to dry. They are eaten in soup, tossed or stir-fried, and each region has its own style shaped by local produce and taste.
Its history can be traced in archaeological finds and written records. Millet noodles about four thousand years old were reported from the Lajia site in Qinghai, a find that was later disputed. The Hou Han shu, in the biography of Liang Ji, records that Liang Ji had poison put in boiled dough (zhubing) served to Emperor Zhi; zhubing is a boiled flour food often seen as a forerunner of noodles. The Northern Wei Qimin yaoshu by Jia Sixie describes shuiyin pressed into thin strips and botuo pressed into thin pieces, then boiled. Eating houses in Northern Song Bianjing already sold many kinds of noodle and flour dishes, as the Dongjing menghua lu later recalled.
The class is sorted in this order: first whether a settled category already exists, such as hung dried noodles and instant noodles; then whether the material fixes the method, as with rice noodles and starch noodles; then the method, such as pulling, shaving, rolling and cutting, extruding and steaming sheets; and finally whether a coarse grain such as buckwheat or oat is the main material.
Today noodles, from the hand-rolled kind made at home to the hung dried and instant noodles made in factories, remain part of everyday eating in many places. This class deals with types; particular noodle dishes, snacks and long-established houses are recorded separately as entries.
Noodles is the class for noodle foods in the chapter on the Cuisine. It takes foods in strands or sheets made from wheat, rice, starch, buckwheat, oat and other meal: pulled, shaved, rolled-and-cut and extruded noodles, hung dried noodles and instant noodles, rice noodles, steamed sheet noodles, starch noodles and coarse-grain noodles. The class is sorted by method and material; soup, tossed and stir-fried are ways of eating, not classes. Particular noodle dishes, snacks and long-established houses are recorded separately as entries.
About four thousand years ago: millet noodles were reported from the Lajia site in Qinghai, a find that was later disputed. About 146: the Hou Han shu, in the biography of Liang Ji, records that Liang Ji had poison put in boiled dough (zhubing) served to Emperor Zhi; zhubing is a boiled flour food often seen as a forerunner of noodles. About 540: Jia Sixie's Northern Wei Qimin yaoshu describes shuiyin pressed into thin strips and botuo pressed into thin pieces, then boiled. About 1100: eating houses in Northern Song Bianjing already sold many kinds of noodle and flour dishes, as the Dongjing menghua lu later recalled. Today: pulled, shaved, rolled-and-cut and extruded noodles, hung dried and instant noodles, rice noodles, steamed sheet noodles, starch noodles and coarse-grain noodles each form a class within noodles.
At dawn the steam rises in a noodle shop. The cook kneads a lump of dough and leaves it to rest on the board. A child who has come to help asks, "How can one lump of dough turn into so many shapes?"
The cook lifts the dough, stretches it, folds it and stretches it again, and in his hands it becomes a bundle of fine strands. He takes a firmer piece and shaves it into the pot with a knife, and the pieces fall with edges of uneven thickness. Then he rolls a dough flat, folds it and cuts it into wide strips.
"All dough," says the cook, "it depends how you set your hand to it." The child counts what has been made: a handful of fine strands, a heap of flat pieces, a stack of wide strips, each with its own shape.
The child watches several kinds roll together in the pot and asks, "And rice noodles?"
The cook points to another pot. "Those are made from something else. Still strands, still a bowl." He fills the bowls one by one, some with soup, some tossed with seasoning, some stir-fried in the pan. The child nods and carries the bowls out.
Explanation
Noodles are not one thing but a class of methods and materials. One dough can be pulled, shaved, rolled or pressed, while rice noodles, starch noodles and coarse-grain noodles start from other materials; all are strands or sheets that, once cooked, become a meal in soup, tossed or stir-fried. (This is an illustrative story, not a historical account.)