At sunset in a village by a stream, rows of sealed earthenware jars fill sheds and yards; workers stir a cauldron over a fire, carry baskets of beans and portion sauces at a long table.
Fermentation Condiments
A brewing craft centred on Aspergillus molds whose fermentation gives savoury taste, preserves food and blends flavours, and the Qimin yaoshu records koji and sauce-making.
Sources (2)
This class is divided by kind of seasoning into seven branches. Those made by fermentation are sauces and pastes, vinegar, fermented curd and douchi, pickles, and chili bean pastes, and the basic seasonings are oils, salt, sugar and honey, and spices.
Sauces and pastes covers soy sauce, bean and flour pastes fermented from soybeans or flour, sesame paste, and aquatic sauces such as fish sauce. Soy sauce is mostly made from soybeans and wheat mixed with a koji mold starter and fermented; the matured mash is pressed for its liquid, which is then filtered and sterilised, and it comes in kinds such as light and dark soy sauce. Fish sauce is a liquid made by fermenting small fish or shrimp with salt and then boiling it. Fermented bean curd is usually fermented with a mucor mold and then cured in brine, wine or red yeast rice, and the common kinds are red, white and green. Douchi is made by soaking yellow or black soybeans, fermenting them, and then drying and steaming them, repeated several times, and is mostly used for seasoning.
Vinegar is a seasoning brewed from grain, fruit and other raw materials, by alcoholic fermentation and then by acetic fermentation, hence the saying that wine and vinegar share one source. By method it is usually divided into solid-state and liquid fermentation, where solid-state fermentation mostly gives black vinegar, and liquid fermentation gives red and white vinegar. Pickles are vegetables kept in salt or by lactic fermentation: northeastern suancai is cabbage pickled in salt, and Sichuan paocai soaks vegetables in brine in sealed jars. The sourness of pickled vegetables comes from lactic fermentation, so they are not counted as vinegar.
Chili bean paste is made by fermenting broad-bean halves and chilli peppers with salt; it is red, salty and hot, an indispensable seasoning in Sichuan cooking, and mapo tofu and twice-cooked pork both use it. Oils, salt, sugar and honey covers salt and monosodium glutamate, vegetable oil and animal fat, and white sugar and honey; spices means Sichuan pepper, star anise, cassia, black pepper, ginger, fennel, scallions and garlic, which are used to remove gaminess, add fragrance and bring out heat or numbing flavours.
Fermentation Condiments is the class on seasonings in the chapter on the Cuisine. It gathers many kinds of condiment: those made by fermentation, which are sauces and pastes, vinegar, fermented curd and douchi, pickles, and chili bean pastes, and the basic seasonings, which are oils, salt, sugar and honey, and spices. It describes the kinds of seasoning and where they come from; the dishes cooked with them belong to the regional cuisines.
Fermented seasonings entered the rules and writings of dining early on.
The Rites of Zhou assigned the hairen and xiren to manage meat sauces and vinegar, placing fermented condiments in the Zhou court food system. The yanren of the Rites of Zhou managed the salt regulations and supplied the various salts.
Confucius would not eat a dish without its proper sauce, which shows the status of jiang in Spring and Autumn dining etiquette. The Book of Songs has the line "shi bo shi ju", where ju means pickled vegetables, which shows that pickling existed before the Qin. The Songs of Chu already mention jiao, the pepper plant.
The Records of the Grand Historian already records the trade in "malt, koji, salt and douchi". Jia Sixie's Qimin yaoshu of the Northern Wei (about 540) recorded in detail how to make koji and soybean, meat and fish sauces, the earliest surviving treatise on the craft of brewing.
Black pepper is generally thought to have come in from the Western Regions after Zhang Qian's journey there. Chilli peppers reached China in the Ming; chili bean paste appeared later than the chilli pepper, and accounts of the date differ.
A sauce-yard: rows of clay urns sealed with mud bake in the sun by day and breathe by night while a fermentation master stirs soybean mash, and the deep savour of jiang slowly matures. Aspergillus-driven biochemistry synthesizing rich amino acids to code the taste identity.
On a summer afternoon a grandmother lifted the lid of the big jar in the corner of the yard, and a salty fragrance rose out.
Her granddaughter leaned over and asked: what is that smell? The grandmother scooped up a little with a spoon and held it to her mouth. The girl tasted it, frowned, licked her lips and said: salty, but with something savoury. The grandmother laughed and said: sauce is like that, a little is enough.
The grandmother added a spoonful of sauce to the pot, and the dish smelled different. The neighbour's wife came over with a dish of pickled cabbage she had made at home, and the two women stood in the yard, each telling how it was done in her own household.
Sauces, vinegar, fermented curd, douchi and pickles are all made by fermentation, and soy sauce is mostly made from soybeans and wheat mixed with a koji mold starter. The Rites of Zhou assigned the hairen and xiren to meat sauces and vinegar, Confucius would not eat a dish without its proper sauce, and the Northern Wei Qimin yaoshu records in detail how to make koji and sauces. The sourness of pickles comes from lactic fermentation, so they are not counted as vinegar. (This is an illustrative story, not a historical account.)