A large bamboo tray of golden millet sits beside a stone mill, a blue-and-white bowl holds millet porridge, a few steaming wotou buns rest on leaves in a bamboo tray, and a bundle of red sorghum heads stands beside them.
Plant Foods
Grains other than rice, introduced crops, vegetables, fruit, melons and nuts: their cultivation, introduction, supply and seasons of use.
Millets and other grains serve as everyday staples. An ancient commentary lists the five grains as shu and ji millets, beans, wheat, and rice; rice has its own category. A transmitted account describes Hou Ji teaching people to cultivate the five grains, whose ripening sustained them; it presents an account of livelihoods in remote antiquity. Grain cultivation requires attention to the farming season, without delaying work in the fields. On the age of millet cultivation, a republished article says that charred millet from the Cishan site in Hebei once pushed the record of millet cultivation in the Yellow River region back to eight thousand years before the present. This is the article's account of an archaeological discovery.
The cultivation of fruit, melons, and vegetables also appears in accounts of livelihoods. Mandarin orchards in Shu, Han, and Jiangling, together with the cultivation of ginger and Chinese chives, are presented as examples of earning a living, with attention to the income planting could bring. The contents of Qimin Yaoshu list separate chapters on growing melons, mallow, garlic, and scallions, giving each its place in accounts of cultivation. Consumption and supply also involved seasonality: the presentation of hantao fruit in midsummer is one example recorded by season. A Tang account describes lychees carried by relay riders over several thousand li so that they would reach the capital fresh, before their flavor changed. Goods listed at a Song night market include walnuts, eli pears, and pomegranates, available even amid winter wind and snow. Accounts of Hangzhou markets list qingguo fruit, mandarins, ginger, water caltrops, and vegetables, while a separate list of restaurant offerings mentions vegetables throughout the four seasons. These are specific examples of urban supply.
An account of obtaining planting material overseas presents the arrival of sweet potatoes as hearsay: according to a local story, someone acquired sweet potato vines abroad and, because taking them away was forbidden there, twisted them into a rope used to draw water and carried them across the sea. They were then propagated and transplanted, reaching parts of Fujian and Guangdong. The account gives no year. Once ingredients reached the kitchen, the timing of their use still mattered. A food text from 1792 presents eating taro in the fourth month as an example of a food enjoyed somewhat later in its season, says that radishes become hollow at the center when past their season, and mentions eating winter-pickled vegetables during the hot summer period. These examples include fresh vegetables used in season and pickled vegetables kept for another season; they describe the particular circumstances of a few ingredients.
Plant Foods covers grains other than rice, introduced crops, fruit and melons, nuts, and vegetables. It describes their cultivation, introduction, supply, and seasons of use. Millets and sweet potatoes belong here. Rice, meat, poultry, eggs, dairy, and aquatic foods belong to other ingredient categories; prepared dishes belong to regional cuisines, and ritual practices and market institutions are covered in their respective categories.
Sources (22)
- Rice first cultivated in China 10,000 years ago (CAS)
- The Shangshan Culture and Agricultural Origins (tDAR)
- 周礼注疏·卷三十三
- 周礼注疏·卷四
- 春秋左传正义·卷五十一
- 孟子·滕文公上
- 孟子·梁惠王上
- 齐民要术·自序(贾思勰)
- 齐民要术·卷第六
- 饮膳正要·兽品(忽思慧)
- 磁山遗址考古:捕捉北方农耕文明的光亮
- “六畜”的起源和传播历史(董广辉、任乐乐)
- 史记·货殖列传
- 齊民要術
- 禮記·月令
- 維基文庫《新唐書·卷七十六(后妃上)》
- 維基文庫《東京夢華錄》卷三
- 維基文庫《夢粱錄》卷十三
- 維基文庫《夢粱錄》卷十六
- 農政全書/卷27
- 随园食单·题名页(袁枚,乾隆五十七年出版,1792)
- 維基文庫《隨園食單》第一節
Early one morning, a man went shopping with a basket, holding a list he had written the night before.
He looked for the items at several stalls. Some were unavailable; others he examined and put back. The child with him asked, "If something is on the list, do we have to buy it?"
He stopped and folded the list. "We still need to see what's here today." They visited a few more stalls, asked where the fruit came from, looked over the vegetables, and chose what they needed.
At home, they laid the basket's contents on the table. The child compared them with the list. "This isn't what we planned last night." The man nodded. "Today we'll cook with what we brought home."
On their next outing, the child brought a sheet of paper too. He had left several spaces blank. "I'll fill these in when we get to the stalls," he said.
Explanation Plans on paper need to take account of the ingredients at hand; decisions about what to buy and when to use it can follow a look at what is available. Understanding plant foods also means noticing where they come from and when they are available, then planning for everyday needs. (This is an illustrative story, not a historical record.)